Bierzo country

First of all, welcome to Mark and Nina Menghini who are well into the start of the Camino. Ultreia!

I am having my breakfast in the town of Cacabelos, having gotten through Ponferrada and back into the countryside. I am in Bierzo region and Cacabelos reflects a good local economy: nice homes, prosperous shops, busy streets and nice coffee shops, like the one I am in. Usually, pilgrims will stop at the first coffee bar they come across when entering a village, as I did coming into Cacabelos. But one look at the wilted croissant, and I moved on – and found the place I am sitting in, filled mostly with locals chatting about all the local news.

Explanatory note: I am going to stop using the term “coffee shop”. I am referring to bars that happen to serve coffee and croissants, or beer or herbal orujo, or whatever you happen to want for breakfast.

The puerta above marked my arrival in Villafranca del Bierzo, the ancient capital of the region. I found my hostal on the opposite side of town. It is called Las Doñas del Portazgo and is a warm and welcoming place. Do you remember how, long after you had left home, and you went back and your Mom made you feel so good and comfortable? That’s how this place is.

I finally caught up with Lisa again. We had our “arrival beer”, then met later for dinner. We talked about our adventures and the people we had met and discussed plans for the next day.