Day 19.

Today I made it to Oviedo, or Uvieu in the Asturian language, the capital of the Principality of Asturias and the “official” starting point of the Camino Primitivo.

The Umayyad invasion of the Iberian peninsula began in 711 and by the end of the decade, they controlled most of the peninsula. Pelagius (Pelayo) was a Hispano-Visigothic nobleman who established the Kingdom of Austrias in 718 and is credited with initiating the Reconquista when he attacked and defeated an Arab-Berber army at the Battle of Covadonga. He is thus considered the forefather of all future Iberian monarchies, including those of Castile, Leon and Portugal. The culmination of the Reconquista would not come until the united kingdoms of Isabelle I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon defeated the last moorish stronghold, the Nasrid in Granada in 1492.

The Camino Primitivo is said to be the first pilgrimage to Santiago. The Spanish King Alfonso II walked from the Asturian Kingdom’s then capital, Oviedo, in the 9th century after hearing that the remains of St James the Apostle had been discovered in Compostela. There is also a Marian pilgrimage between Oviedo and Covadonga (GR-105, in case you are interested).

I was planning to take a break in Oviedo, rest my feet, perhaps mail some of the extra cargo I am carrying ahead, make some advance lodging reservations and generally prepare for the subidas and bajadas that are coming up. But why waste time? So I embark tomorrow in the footsteps of Alfonso.

This is Harry. I met him on my way to Oviedo.
St. Peter’s church, near Colloto. Closed. I was also hoping to see the insides of the Oviedo Cathedral. Also closed on feast days. Today is Martes del Campo, something like a San Isidro holiday.
I have been in Asturias about a week and I hadn’t had any cider, which is famous in these parts. I ducked into a small bar and had a shot. Then I noticed there was a restaurant attached. I ordered braised ox-tail served on arepas. The tails are braised slowly in a concoction of carrots, garlic, red wine, etc. then the meat is picked off the bone. It was delicious. Hidden behind the bottle of cider is my glass of Lopez de Haro, a great Rioja crianza.
Not sure who lives here but I think I know their favorite color.

Ultreia y Suseia!

3 thoughts on “Day 19.

  1. Magnificent Voyage! We went to Covadonga on our abbreviated Camino in 1998. Big stone lions guarding the place. Great photos as always.

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