Day 20. First day of the Primitivo

Are you a believer in signs? Do you think there are messages in your dreams? Do you look to the zodiac for guidance? Or is this all superstition and nonsense? Consider this: As I left my hotel in Oviedo this morning, I walked by some golden beads lying on the sidewalk. Reminded me of Mardi Gras beads so I kept walking. But the glitter stayed in my mind and I returned and picked them up. It was a rosary, and not a plastic one but some kind of solid metal. I thought, “I was meant to pick up this rosary and take it with me to Santiago.” As I walked on, though, other thoughts came to mind. This was a very nice rosary and someone was probably stressing out and praying to find it. I turned around again and went into a coffee shop across from where I found the beads and gave the rosary to the waitress. What do you make of that? At the very least, I hope, good karma!

On the way out of town I noticed a chapel with door open. I walked in, hoping to sit for a few minutes of peaceful contemplation. Instead, I found that the Mass had just started. I sat there until it was over, and a little longer listening to the nuns singing songs whose melodys were vaguely familiar.

The day started out chilly and foggy. By the time I was well on my way, it was warming up but the sky remained clouded over – perfect hiking weather for me. There were several coffee bars and restaurants along the way. Most of the trails were wooded, rural dirt or stone paths; a small portion was asphalt and even less on busy roads. by the time I reached the first day’s destination, Grado, it was bright, sunny and hot.

I actually went down (total descent: 620m, or 2000’) more than I went up (total ascent: 470m, or 1550’). But that will change tomorrow. The scenery is beautiful and it is so green! Lots of cattle and sheep and horses.

By the way, and Lisa will be interested in this, I have been seeing a lot of hórreos since entering Asturias. We saw a lot of them in Galicia last year. Most are very old structures but here in Asturias there are a lot of new ones. They were originally designed to hold grain and other crops and keep the varmints out. You can see the flat rocks on top of the legs which little critters cannot negotiate. Now, it looks like they are used for other purposes, including grandmas house.