Day 21. Sight for sore feet

Salas, today’s destination, is a happy little town. It was a shorter walk than average, just under 13 miles and the Alberge Valle de Nonaya where I am staying is clean and tidy. I have my own room but I share a bathroom and kitchen area with three other rooms. I was first to arrive so I had a clean shower to myself. Then I did my laundry, consisting of my shirt and underwear along with another shirt and hung it outside the window where there was a clothesline handily installed. After completing my chores, I laid down for about 30 minutes with my feet raised on a pillow. Although short, the trail had some steep and often rocky ups and downs and my feet were complaining about the abuse I was putting them through. But I try to get a 30-minute decompression every day.

Then it was off to the bar for my arrival beer. As I was sorting through the day’s photographs, a gentleman I had seen early that morning departing Grado walked by. We greeted each other and he sat down to join me for a beer. His name is Takaya and he is a classical guitar performer and instructor but has lately taken to playing the Portuguese guitar accompanying Fado singers. In case you had forgotten, fado is a form of music popular in Portugal characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics infused with a sentiment of resignation, fate and melancholy. Fado has become very popular in Japan. Takaya told me a beautiful Portuguese Fado singer asked him to play a Portuguese guitar and he could not refuse.

Takaya has chalked up seven Caminos. He told me about the Ohendo walk around Shikoku island, over 1000 km long and visiting 88 temples. He has not attempted that one yet, because it is so close to home.

The Primitivo family is coming together after only two days. Many of us are on the same schedule and we crisscross each other through the day.