Day 23. The Primitivo

Today, I believe, was the defining stage of the Primitivo. The Camino rose from 600m to 1130m rising above the tree line to reveal some magnificent views. I took the Hospitales route which is recommended in good weather and for most of the day I had great weather. It was a magnificent day and although a bit different from what I expected, it made this whole adventure a rewarding experience.

I took a lot of pictures but it was hard to capture the colors and depth and breathtaking panoramas. As I started out, there was one pilgrim ahead of me. He had a good pace and although I approached him a few times he was soon off into his own world. He did not want to chitchat which was fine with me. I bumped into a few people going the other way.

There were some forest fires last April that swept through the area I passed through today, as attested to by a lot of black trees. However, the vegetation is coming back and the locals expect the trees will too.

What goes up must come down and the trail eventually led down from 1120m to 850m. I began hearing thunder and noticed dark clouds ahead. Today the rain caught up with me and I pulled on my handy Hefty bag, and soon found a chapel with a convenient portico sheltering several pilgrims. After half an hour it cleared up and we were on our way. I going to stay in Berducedo. I thought I had a private room booked but the fellow who attended me said, no, this is an alberge. I didn’t mention that I have stayed at many alberges that also had private rooms. I asked if I could rent a towel. No, he reminded me, this is an alberge. I resigned myself to doing the communal thing, but was not happy with the guy’s surly attitude. The pins and needles sticking at odd places in his face did not help me feel welcome. Long story short, I found a room in the next village and grabbed my gear and hiked another hour and found a very pleasant place alley Alberge Miguelin where I am sitting with a glass of wine writing this post.

I must mention one other person I met. She is a French girl traveling solo (from Paris) who does not stay in alberges. She spends the night in a sleeping bag in the fields, in a tent if rain threatens. She would not let me take her picture. She wants to go to Senegal next. Draw your own conclusions.