There and back again

Day 1. St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

First, I want to give thanks and acknowledge my good fortune to be able to walk my Camino. I thank Paula for giving me the freedom to leave home for some far away place to go roaming about the countryside. I thank my family for their support because they understand, somehow, that I need this quixotic quest. I thank all who read my ramblings because it gives me discipline.

Second, I pray for inspiration and strength. On my first two Caminos, I received a blessing, the first from Pastor Michael of the Community Church near our home in Encinitas and the second from Father White of St Kateri church near the Wranch in Buffalo, Texas. I did not get a blessing prior to this trip, so I ask that each of you send a good thought my way. Then, I am sure that inspiration and strength will find me.

Yesterday, 24 hours after leaving Encinitas, I took a bus from Biarritz to Bayonne and from there a jam-packed train to St Jean Pied de Port. While waiting for my hotel to open I sipped a beer at the bar next door and met a Ukrainian woman. I could see the war in her face, but after we talked a bit, she would flash the occasional smile of the happy young girl that Putin took away.

I walked around the village, seeing much more than I had on my first visit in 2023, had a decent meal at Chez Dede, checked out the start of the Camino, and, tired from the long day, went back to my hotel and slept soundly.

This morning was dark and cold and I was sleeping so good I got off to a bit of a late start, but I had a great walk. Last time, it was sunny and crisp and the vistas were amazing. This time around it was foggy and sometimes visibility was about 50 feet. The refuge in Orisson was crowded — seems there are more pilgrims this year — but the orange juice, tortilla and coffee were delicious. Total elevation changes today were +1260 meters (4135’) and -380 meters (1245’). Total mileage, about 15 miles.

I decided to stay this night in an albergue (like a youth hostel, where you sleep in bunkbeds in a room with other people) and checked into the place in Roncesvalle, which holds about 250 people. I had kind of forgotten they don’t have sheets or blankets or towels. I went to a nearby hotel and searched the floors for the cleaning lady’s cart to find a towel — with no success.

Tonight, I go for a meal at the hotel around the corner, called the Hotel Roncesvalles which looks like a very nice place — even if the maids don’t leave towels lying around— for which the albergue provided me a meal voucher.

By the way, in case you were wondering, I found a towel in the albergue Lost and Found. I had just enough shampoo in a small packet taken from my last hotel in case of emergency to have a good scrub. I feel much better! But I look forward to a normal check-in, towels and blankets, and a private room tomorrow night. And I haven’t even experienced the snoring, groaning, farting and sleep-walking in this bunkhouse yet.

Ultraia et suseia!