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Last night I was faced with a major decision. The coastal trek with its ups and downs, and trying to keep pace with Steve from Montana and Collette from New Zealand, had left me too tired to consider the options: a short walk to Colunga or a much longer trek to Villaviciosa. So I decidedContinue reading “Day 17. A little help from my friends”

You should have received your notice about Day 15. It got stuck in the ether. Lo siento! There was no breakfast at The Old Seaman Bed and Breakfast this morning, at least not before 0900, so I guess I should be thankful for the bed. I left Celorio a bit later than I expected butContinue reading “Day 16. A rather coastal day”

I left La Franca early this morning and took the E-9 trail as an alternative to the “official” Camino which runs along the country roads. Instead, the E-9 took me along the coast through farmland and cow pastures. Last night’s rain did not make the trail any worse for wear. I walked for about 5Continue reading “Day 15. Week 3 begins”

I am sitting in my little casita, a rural cabin in the tiny crossroad of La Franca, but I might as well be in Thailand or Singapore during a tropical downpour kicked off with lightning and thunder. I am glad I am not out hiking in the deluge, but it is a good sign. ThisContinue reading “Day 14. Changing Gears”

I am sitting in my little casita, a rural cabin in the tiny crossroad of La Franca, but I might as well be in Thailand or Singapore during a tropical downpour kicked off with lightning and thunder. I am glad I am not out hiking in the deluge, but it is a good sign. ThisContinue reading “Day 14. Changing Gears”

When Paula and I lived in Madrid we were privileged to visit the cave of Altamira near Santillana del Mar. I believe it was Kamal Osman who was able to get the tickets which even back then were very difficult to come by; today the cave is closed to the public for reasons of conservationContinue reading “Day 13. Double scallop day”

The skies and the weather forecasts were threatening rain so we geared up with our rain kit for our 10 mile hike to Santander. We started off from Guemes on country roads which led back to the coast. The skies were gray but still no rain. We walked along the cliff’s edge, stopping now andContinue reading “Day 12. Gray Day”

It was a 45 minute walk from our hotel down the streets of Laredo to catch the ferry to Santoña. All the passengers were pilgrims including a couple on bicycles. Once on the other side we found a coffee bar and had our breakfast, along with most of the pilgrims. We left Santoña passing byContinue reading “Day 11. La bruma nos consuma”

Cantabria is nestled between Euskadi, the Basque country, and Asturias on the north coast of Spain and is named after the Cantabri, a Celtic people who settled the region during the Iron Age more than 1000 years BC. They fought as mercenaries for the Carthaginians against Rome during the second Punic Wars which ended aboutContinue reading “Day 10.”

I hiked eleven miles today, a leisurely walk along the coast and then a slightly more difficult climb inland to La Posada de Fernanda in Rio Seco where I am staying tonight. The trail was well marked, though I do keep my Buen Camino app handy which includes my gps position on satellite view map.Continue reading “Day 9. A Peaceful Moment”