Today was a very enjoyable walk. I woke up from one of the better sleeps I’ve had (must be pintxos and Txakoli) but I found myself going through email, reading a newsletter I subscribe to. As soon as I realized what I was doing (wasting time), I shut my phone down. My goal is to avoid newsletters, news sites, podcasts, social media, and all that nonsense of the carnival. I am getting better at using my phone only for personal emails, messages and my blog site. Oh yeah, and to find my way with my Gaia app.
My new friend in Vitoria. He is a bullfighter. He is not happy that Vitoria no longer hosts bullfight festivals (subsidies have been removed and most bullfighting facilities are being dismantled). But he shrugs it off. A couple hours away is Pamplona, where the bull attracts almost 500,000 visitors for the San Fermin festival in July.
I am writing this note in La Puebla de Arganzon, my destination for today. I left my hotel in Vitoria at 8 am, had a coffee and croissant at the bar next door (forgot to pay the bill, I do feel bad about that — give peregrinos a bad rep), and I arrived in Arganzon at 12:30! I am sitting out front sipping a beer while I wait for the hotel to open.
The departure from Vitoria was mostly along a wide tree-lined esplanade, or paseo. After a mile or so the promenade ended and city streets took over. Then come the highways and busy roads which went on for another two or three miles.
I left Vitoria on this wide walkway past several parks and green areas. Towards the end was a statue of San Prudencio, patron saint of the province of Alava. Soon I was onto this busy road which went on for a couple miles. No sidewalk or footpath for pilgrims and no pedestrian would risk it. The cars coming towards you had the sun in their eyes and the road was narrow. It was not fun. Finally the camino veered off into the countryside. It was relatively flat and evenly surfaced for a while but soon started up steeply into the hills followed by a long descent on slippery loose rock. It reminded me of the Alto de Perdon on the Frances outside Pamplona, maybe a bit more difficult.
The final stretch into La Puebla de Arganzon was very enjoyable. It was flat to slightly downhill and after the rough section before, I felt like I was floating. Isn’t that like life: some harrowing experiences, some challenging ones, and sometimes the joy of being alive is simply exquisite.
But I have not seen a single pilgrim or backpacker since I left Pamplona and the Camino Frances. I hear the Frances and other Caminos are crowded with people. I went to the local albergue and there were three pilgrims staying there.
This was the scene when I first arrived at hotel. Later, it seemed the whole village was there. Little children were running around, parents chattering, and more coming all the time! Little boys were kicking their balls around, often hitting my table. The little girls were playing with their toys. These pictures don’t capture what a busy noisy place the small plaza has become. I can hear them still at it, kids and grownups, at 8:30pm. They’ve been at it since about 4! Reminds me of when we lived in Madrid. Families would be outside playing, talking, and eating until 11 pm, especially in the summertime. Some locals walking their dogs. Speaking of dogs…
